By Nancy Shanahan, President, Northeast San Francisco Conservancy (nesfc.org)
As you undoubtedly have heard, after many years of extensive research NESFC, supported by THD and many others, officially filed a nomination to list North Beach as a historic district on the esteemed National Register of Historic Places. The National Register is “the official list of the Nation’s historic places worthy of preservation.” It is “part of a national program to coordinate and support public and private efforts to identify, evaluate, and protect America’s historic and archeological resources.” In addition to listing eligible historic properties, the National Register helps qualified historic properties receive a range of benefits and incentives.
This nomination, prepared by Architectural Historian Katherine Petrin, is the culmination of work that began in 1980, almost half a century ago! A comprehensive effort byqualified historic preservation professionals and volunteers resulted in the development of aNorth Beach Historic Context Statement that was unanimously adopted by San Francisco’s Historic Preservation Commission (HPC) in 2022. The Context Statement became the source material for the nomination to the National Register of Historic Places, now scheduled for consideration at the State Historical Resources Commission’s May 9th meeting in Sacramento (just after publication of this issue of The Semaphore).
As summarized by the State Office of Historic Preservation:
The property is associated with San Francisco’s reconstruction following the 1906 Earthquake and Fire, cultural significance for its association with Italian and Chinese communities, Bohemian and Beat writers and counterculture of the 20th century, LGBTQ+ history, and architecture, including the work of a large number of master architects.
Where are we in the Process?
Following the filing of the nomination in June of last year, letters were sent by the State to all property owners in the proposed district, informing them of the nomination and inviting their comments. HPC held a public hearing on January 15th and unanimously recommended approval of the nomination to the State Historical Resources Commission, which was scheduled to take it up on February 7th. And that’s when things started getting dicey and spicy.
Without any heads up to the proponents, District 3 Supervisor Danny Sauter convinced Mayor DanielLurie to ask for a delay from the state. On January 27th, the last day possible to pull the item from the Commission’s agenda, Mayor Lurie requested it be removed to allow more time for his office to conduct “due diligence.” As a result, the nomination was withdrawn from the February 7th agenda.Use this link to read an article on the North Beach Historic District by Woody LaBounty of San Francisco Heritage explaining the delay: https://www.sfheritage.org/news/north-beach-national-register-district-stalled/.
Supporters sprang into action, and the response from the community has been amazing and heartening. With a group of committed volunteers, we launched a robust public outreach effort, getting support letters from dozens of local businesses, from City Lights Bookstore to Caffe Trieste,organizations like the North Beach Business Association, the Italian Athletic Club, and the Chinese Chamber of Commerce, and from many property owners and residents. The nomination has also received support from San Francisco Heritage, the Coalition for San Francisco Neighborhoods, the California Preservation Foundation, and former Mayors Art Agnos and Willie Brown. We produced fliers and beautiful posters—Thank you to our own renowned John Mattos who provided the artwork—and got two billboards supporting the Historic District—Thanks to Tony Gemignani from Tony’s Pizza. We made gorgeous t-shirts—Let us know if you want one; they are only $19!. We have been doing outreach every Saturday at the North Beach Farmers Market and have gotten hundreds of signatures on an online petition in support of the district.
As a result of these efforts, we have been successful in placing the nomination back on the May 9th agenda of the State Historical Resources Commission.
Why is North Beach Worthy of Listing on the National Register?
Here is a brief look at the incredible history of North Beach as documented in the National Register nomination.
Rapid Reconstruction of North Beach Following the 1906 Earthquake and Fire
The most significant theme in North Beach history was its rapid rebuilding after the 1906 earthquake and fire that wiped out all existing buildings in North Beach, except for the shell of St. Francis of Assisi Church, leaving the layout of street and lots and Italian ownership intact. Due to several important factors, North Beach was the first part of the City to be rebuilt. Two Italian bankers, A.P. Giannini (Bank of Italy, now Bank of America) and Andrea Sbarboro (Italian American Bank, now merged into Bank of America), helped their compatriots by providing loans and shipping in lumber that enabled owners to rebuild buildings and businesses quickly and cheaply. Another factor in the quick reconstruction was the presence of many architects, contractors, skilled masons, and construction workers among the Italian population.
Resulting from its rapid rebuilding on previous patterns, North Beach possesses an overall continuity and consistency of style, scale, use, building methods, and materials. Almost uniformly, they are treated with facade ornamentation derived from Renaissance and Baroque architecture, including cornices, belt courses, columns, window and door moldings, and other decorative details. Almost all buildings were built to the sides of their lots. On hillsides, they climb in even steps, the basement or ground floor accommodating the adjustment from level.
Among the many building types constructed in North Beach during the period after the earthquake and fire, residential and mixed-use flats buildings are the most numerous. Most flats are two-or-three-story buildings, with living units stacked on top of each other. The entry to each flat is reached through outside doors and up private interior stairways. Collectively, they are extremely important to the proposed historic district. If you look around, you will see many flats buildings, including Romeo flats, so-called because of the open-air or enclosed balcony on each floor, alley flats with flat facades and no bay windows, and flats with storefronts on the ground floor.
Social History of North Beach
Italian Life and Culture. As the focus of Italian life and culture in San Francisco, North Beach is known as “Little Italy.” Italians were primarily responsible for rebuilding their neighborhood after the earthquake and fire before any other section of the City. And, Italian life and culture endures today in our churches, including Saints Peter and Paul and St. Francis of Assisi, voluntary societies and social clubs such as the Italian Community Services at 678 Green Street (known as Fugazi Hall), the Italian Athletic Club at 1630 Stockton Street, and parades and celebrations, to name only a few.
Bohemians and Beats. Bohemians of various sorts have been in North Beach throughout its history. North Beach is celebrated for its concentration of existing places associated with the Beats, which most of us know well, including City Lights Bookstore (Landmark No. 228), Old Spaghetti Factory (Landmark No. 127), Vesuvio Café, Specs’12 Adler Place, Gino and Carlo, Tosca, Caffé Trieste, Fugazi Hall, and so many others.
Lesbian, Bisexual, Transgender, and Queer (LGBTQ). North Beach is also known for its association with LGBTQ social history, significant as San Francisco’s first bar-based LGBTQ community. Between 1933 and 1965, more than 20 nightclubs, bars, and restaurants catering to gay, lesbian, and transgender people opened in North Beach. A few of the earliest and most significant are Finocchio’s, Mona’s 440 Club, the Black Cat Café, and the Paper Doll at 524 Union Street (Landmark No. 287).
Architecture
Many buildings in North Beach are significant for their architecture, as expressed by intact stylistic features, forms, construction methods, or distinctive aesthetic quality. These include the works of master architects, such as Louis Mastropasqua, Italo Zanolini, John A. Porporato, Perseo Righetti, Charles Fantoni, Louis Traverso, Paul J. Capurro, Joseph Devincenzi, and Paul J. DeMartini, who designed a great number of buildings in North Beach.
Buildings designed by prominent Modern architects between 1935 and 1970 are also significant, including those by Martin Rist, Hertzka & Knowles, and Gardner Dailey being the most prominent.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does it mean to be on the National Register?
Being on the National Register makes property owners and local businesses eligible for financial benefits and incentives. There are 32 federally recognized National Register Historic Districts in San Francisco, from the vast Presidio to the Embarcadero Historic District, from the Lower Nob Hill Apartment Hotel Historic District to the Union Iron Works at Pier 70. Throughout the United States, there are thousands more, including Little Italy in New York City and the French Quarter in New Orleans, all celebrated as our nation’s most significant historic places.
As a property owner, does a National Register designation restrict my ability to alter, manage, maintain, restore, or dispose of a property?
Listing in the National Register places neither restrictions nor requirements on a private property owner. You may do with the property as you wish, within the framework of local laws or ordinances. You are not required to maintain the property in any specific way; you may demolish the property without federal permission.
Will a National Register designation put my property insurance at risk?
No! Designation does not in any way affect insurance issues. The California Office of Historic Preservation confirms that it has not seen a single instance of coverage being dropped or refused because of historic district designation. Rumors to the contrary are misinformation.
Will it Block New Housing?
Far from blocking housing, designation encourages well-informed development, preserves cultural heritage, and fosters the considerable economic growth tourism brings. Designation provides incentives for investment in and rehabilitation of historic buildings that reflect North Beach’s character.
Why is National Register designation a positive thing?
• Designation recognizes North Beach’s historical and architectural significance and reinforces the perception that residents and visitors consider this a special place.
• Designation makes available significant benefits for property owners, tenants, and businesses and stimulates the economy. Designation provides residential and commercial property owners with valuable historical information and certainty as to the historic status of a property; you will know if your property is considered historic or not.
• Designation provides access to tax benefits through the Mills Act Program for contributing buildings; eligibility for the California State Historic Tax Credit (for homeowners, too) and the Federal Historic Preservation Tax Credit (a 20% cash return on construction costs). For a list of tax incentives and other benefits, go to nesfc.org.
We’ll keep you posted on the results of the May 9th hearing, and if you’re reading this before May 9th, please sign the petition at nesfc.org. We look forward to reporting a successful result. We believe, and we think you’ll agree, that North Beach is one of the areas in San Francisco most worthy of being listed on the National Register.
